Feature

Fantastic in Plastic: Jewelry from the Lois Boardman Collection

By  | 

PLASTICS. With one word The Graduate helped define a generation, one that sneered at the perceived superficiality of American life and its “artificial” products. While the material was ubiquitous in industry by the time the film hit theaters in 1967, jewelers were just beginning to grapple with plastic’s potential. It was an inexpensive, malleable material, free of the value-laden connotations of precious metals and gemstones.

The Los Angeles County Museum of Art has received a remarkable gift of more than three hundred pieces of contemporary studio jewelry from South Pasadena collector Lois Boardman and her husband Bob, featuring work from the United States, Europe, Australia, New Zealand, and Japan. This fall LACMA will host the exhibition Beyond Bling: Jewelry from the Lois Boardman Collection, which will showcase the diversity of materials and forms studio jewelers have used over the last half century. Plastics are integral to many extraordinary works in the Boardman collection, and using examples from those holdings we can trace key moments and approaches to these manmade materials in studio jewelry. Over the last fifty years, plastics have gone from innovative industrial products to materials that permeate almost every aspect of modern life. This transformation has affected how jewelers approach these materials, ranging from an early and sustained enthusiasm for plastics’ creative potential to more recent critiques of their place in contemporary consumer culture.

Prev5 of 9Next
Use your ← → (arrow) keys to browse

Ring, 1971. Gold and acrylic, 15/8 by 11/2 inches. | © CLAUS BURY, LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART (LACMA), GIFT OF LOIS AND BOB BOARDMAN; ALL PHOTOS © MUSEUM ASSOCIATES / LACMA

Ring, 1971. Gold and acrylic, 15/8 by 11/2 inches. | © CLAUS BURY, LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART (LACMA), GIFT OF LOIS AND BOB BOARDMAN; ALL PHOTOS © MUSEUM ASSOCIATES / LACMA

German jeweler (and now sculptor) Claus Bury quickly rose to fame in the studio jewelry field with his innovative combinations of acrylic and precious metals. The 1971 ring in the Boardman collection exemplifies the machine aesthetic of his early work with acrylic elements riveted down and radiating out from a gold engine block– like form. While working in London, Bury was featured in a series of important exhibitions, including a 1972 group show at Electrum Gallery that focused on the use of acrylic in jewelry. This cemented his place among the most innovative jewelers of the day and helped disseminate his work. As jeweler Hermann Jünger noted in the catalogue to the Electrum exhibition, “It is at this point that acrylics become both fascinating and legitimate for the goldsmith who is not yet inhibited and prejudiced by the intrinsic value of traditional materials.” Bury’s refined metalwork coupled with the use of neon acrylic resonated with the pop and psychedelic currents of the era. Through his work, Bury demonstrated that plastics were a viable and vibrant medium for jewelry, worthy of inclusion alongside precious metals and full of creative possibilities.

Prev5 of 9Next
Use your ← → (arrow) keys to browse